The traditional headdress, which is a representative of Pakistani culture, is seldom seen these days
. GRAPHIC : AMNA IQBAL
ISLAMABAD:
Not just a literary rock star and renowned ladies’ man, Lord Byron was also known for making bold, striking fashion statements — perhaps in an attempt to prove that his genius could find more outlets for expression.
Thomas Phillips’ influential portrait, “George Gordon, Lord Byron”
(1914), depicts the poet in a red velvet jacket and a remarkable turban,
layered in orange, gold and brown. The turban adds a debonair charm to
Byron’s ‘mystique,’ immortalising him in a timeless ensemble — the best
of East and West.
Lord Byron’s portrait fits into a larger 18th century
trend marked by a fascination and longing for the ‘Orient’, with western
luxury and art markets turning to Arabia and India for inspiration.
Nearly a century later, it’s ironic that Pakistani men — as modern day
Orientals — still remain confused when it comes to fully channelling
their fashion heritage. One wonders where have all the turbans gone?
This is not to say that it isn’t ‘done’, that exciting headgear
options aren’t available. Only recently designers and labels the likes
of Fahad Hussayn and Lajwanti turned out their turbaned trends for
Bridal Couture Week (2011) ramps. Hussayn’s aesthetic stuck to a darker
palette dominated by black and grey sherwanis, complimented by
similarly neutral but otherwise elaborate headgear. Lajwanti’s Bridal
collection featured a red turban (with subtle gold embroidery) that
would’ve been at home on Lord Byron’s head.
Designer Kamiar Rokni states, “In an ideal world, I’d love to walk
around in a turban. I’m always the one who ties the turbans at mehndis.
Headgear can be very elegant and regal; and turbans say both of those
things. It’s not really a ‘new’ look — it’s the day time look for a lot
of rural Pakistanis. But, then again, we do live in the modern world and
the look can become difficult.”
On the other hand Designer Mohsin Ali, who recently showcased his
collection at PFDC, stated, “Turbans have already been catered on the
ramps as well as the racks in the West, but we can only spot them on the
ramps in Pakistan.” He also added that, “Turbans don’t complement
evening gowns but would look great if accompanied with day wear.”
However, runway trends aren’t exactly an accurate picture of reality.
Our turbans exist within the ornate context of bridalwear but unravel
entirely when it comes to day/evening use. We witness a sharp
disconnect; Pakistani men with buying power are all about ‘culture’ when
it comes to fashion-weeks but will otherwise bust out the infallible
Zara or D&G shirt with a Hermes belt at parties and evening
occasions. Is it possible that we’ve become a little too whitewashed?
With their roguish good looks and Mughal-esque stature, a great
multitude of Pakistani men would look super posh, if not downright
eye-catching, in looks that celebrate culture.
“Is this for a wedding?” asks a sales-rep at a Junaid Jamshed outlet,
utterly shocked that anyone would take to the excellent turbans
(Rs4,000 a piece — cheaper replicas also available elsewhere) for the
sake of their artistry. One hot pink turban, in particular, would go
well with one of Jamshed’s own black, gold-embroidered sherwanis
(Rs7,000 and up) and a pair of well-fitting black or even navy jeans;
if worn with the right attitude, the man will find himself the centre of
attention at any fancy soiree. Even a casual kurta (a nice,
mustard-yellow one from Khaadi at Rs2,800) works with a darker turban.
Rokni adds, “There’s a picture of me in a hot pink turban with a preppy
outfit. The headgear seems to complement prep.”
For a more ‘toned down’ look, the turban may also be accentuated when
worn with an all-black ensemble: a turtleneck and jeans (even trousers)
— imbibing a sense of Byronic mystery while promoting and revamping the
region’s timeless headpieces.
Finally, a call to all our local designers: Make desi
headgear accessible for casual/evening wear (aka beyond bridals) before
Lady Gaga steals the look entirely and appropriates it into the West’s
hegemony on global fashion trends.
Published in The Express Tribune, November 15th, 2011.
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